We travelled from Amman, Jordan to Jerash by car. It was quick and convenient, taking about an hour, but that depends on traffic. From Amman, we headed north on Route 35, also known as the Amman-Irbid Highway, which is well-marked with signs directing you toward Jerash. The road was smooth and straightforward, passing through picturesque landscapes of Jordan’s countryside.
Once at Jerash, it revealed one of the most impressive and best-preserved Roman archaeological sites in the world, often called the “Pompeii of the East.” Nestled in northern Jordan, Jerash offers a striking journey through Roman architecture and urban design. Highlights include the remarkable colonnaded street, the South Gate and city wall, the Nymphaeum, the Temple of Artemis, and the South Theater, each providing a unique window into the grandeur of Roman life.
The South Gate and city wall at Jerash are captivating remnants of the city’s ancient defenses and one of the first structures visitors encounter at the archaeological site. Built during the 2nd century, the South Gate stands as a grand entrance to the ancient city, showcasing the intricately carved stonework characteristic of Roman architecture. This gate, once part of the city’s protective wall, is well-preserved and offers a dramatic introduction to Jerash. The city wall itself originally spanned over 3 kilometers and encircled the city to protect it from invasions, with several gates serving as controlled access points.
The Arch of Hadrian in Jerash is a monumental gateway built in 129 AD to honor the Roman Emperor Hadrian’s visit to the city. Standing nearly 11 meters high, the arch was initially intended to serve as a grand entrance to an expanded Jerash, symbolizing the city’s prominence within the Roman Empire. Its intricate stonework, Corinthian columns, and three-arched structure showcase the grandeur and craftsmanship of Roman architecture. Unlike the South Gate, which served a defensive purpose, the Arch of Hadrian was a ceremonial structure, positioned outside the main city walls to create a memorable, welcoming statement. Visitors pass through the Arch of Hadrian before entering the main ruins, experiencing a symbolic gateway into Jerash’s Roman past before encountering the more fortified South Gate.
The Roman colonnaded street, or Cardo Maximus, stretches for over 800 meters, bordered by imposing columns that line both sides. As you walk along this ancient thoroughfare, you can feel the city’s past vitality. The original paving stones remain, deeply grooved from chariot wheels that passed here centuries ago. Shops, public spaces, and smaller temples once lined this bustling street, creating a vivid picture of ancient Jerash as a thriving urban center.
The Nymphaeum, Jerash’s grand fountain, was built to honor water nymphs and is adorned with elaborate carvings and beautiful niches. Once fed by a sophisticated aqueduct system, it would have been a stunning display of water and architecture, with cascades flowing from the upper level, refreshing the city and impressing visitors with Roman engineering skill.
The Temple of Artemis, dedicated to Jerash’s patron goddess, is another highlight. Climbing the stairs to its imposing façade, you’ll encounter towering Corinthian columns and intricately carved capitals. These remnants of the once-massive temple evoke the grandeur of Roman religion and architectural ambition. The site’s elevated position gives a sweeping view of Jerash, enhancing the sense of awe.
The South Theater is equally captivating, a classic Roman amphitheater that could seat over 3,000 spectators. Its excellent acoustics and semicircular seating make it a marvel of Roman engineering. Today, the theater hosts cultural events, and experiencing a performance here is a memorable way to connect with history.
Each element of Jerash—from the Cardo Maximus to the towering temples—reveals the sophistication of Roman urban planning and design. Visiting this ancient city allows travelers to step back in time and witness the powerful legacy of the Roman Empire in Jordan, making Jerash a must-see destination for history enthusiasts and travelers alike.