Our visit to Coimbra felt like stepping into a living chapter of Portugal’s history — a place where medieval charm and academic prestige blend beautifully along the banks of the Mondego River. Spending two to three days here was perfect, enough to absorb its intellectual atmosphere, explore its layered history, and simply enjoy the rhythm of daily life in one of Portugal’s oldest cities. Coimbra was once the medieval capital of Portugal before Lisbon took that title, and today it remains famous for its university — one of the oldest in Europe, founded in 1290 — which continues to define the city’s soul.
Our first glimpse of the University of Coimbra, perched high above the city, was breathtaking. The grand courtyard of Paço das Escolas, framed by elegant baroque buildings. However, once in Coimbra, we were disappointed to learn that visiting the stunning Joanina Library wasn’t possible without joining a full campus-wide tour. We had our hearts set on seeing its ornate interiors and centuries-old books up close, so realizing we couldn’t explore it freely felt like a real letdown. Still, even from the outside, the library’s grandeur hinted at the beauty and history within. Outside, students in traditional black capes moved through narrow lanes, giving the city an unmistakable scholarly energy that makes Coimbra truly unique in Portugal.
We spent our afternoons wandering the steep cobblestone streets that twist down from the university hill into the lower town. The architecture tells stories of Portugal’s past — Roman ruins, Moorish remnants, and Gothic churches all blending together. The Old Cathedral (Sé Velha), built in the 12th century, impressed us with its fortress-like design and beautifully carved portal. Just beyond it, we discovered charming cafés and small taverns where locals shared coffee and conversation, creating an inviting, authentic atmosphere that felt worlds away from the busier cities of Lisbon or Porto.
Two to three days in Coimbra allowed us to see its highlights without rushing — from strolling the botanical gardens to relaxing by the riverfront at dusk. Visiting in summer gave us warm evenings perfect for wandering and dining outdoors, though we could imagine the city’s historic romance holding just as strong in any season. Coimbra isn’t just a stop between Lisbon and Porto; it’s a destination that captures the heart of Portugal’s history, intellect, and soul.